Week 5: The story of a garment – inside your wardrobe

Recently, I’m living student accommodation. This room is quite small and my wardrobe also small. I couldn’t bring many clothes and I will move out in a year so I shouldn’t need large wardrobe. In fact, I have big wardrobe in Japan but I never satisfy a size of wardrobe. Although I had big wardrobe, my wardrobe was always full and some clothes those I couldn’t find their space are piled up on a sofa. Sometime I feel sorry for these miserable clothes however, I can’t stop buying new clothes and I can’t throw them to a rubbish bin until they have got hole. As I keep too many clothes, some of clothes are much more difficult to be disposable because they are memorable clothes.

Garment 1: from recent wardrobe

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The grey brushed jersey hoodie with flower print was given by my colleagues in the former workplace. Actually, this is a plot sample of this season’s collection from our brand. I remember that it was tough to manage buying textile because the sales was bigger than we expected and the process of making this textile took long time. This was a part of my last job with bulk production in the brand. Last week, I have got the news that the brand will finish next summer collection. It was a good team but it dissolved last week. When I wear this hoodie, I always remember my good team members.

Garment 2: from recent wardrobe

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This big silhouette T-shirts with skull applique is also given as a farewell gift from my friend. She is a designer and she remembered that I talked about this clothes as cute. Using Hawaiian print cloth for the first garment but she changed it to Japanese traditional print for me because I left Japan for a while. Handmade gifts are always special for me.

Garment 3: from Japanese wardrobe

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This is the most expensive garment in my wardrobe. This is Kimono but particularly called Furisode. Nowadays, Kimono are not daily wear although, Furisode is especially for formal situation. In Japan, When people become 20 years old, they are accepted legally adult so we celebrate coming of age day in January. Many girls wearing Furisode and it looks gorgeous. I also wore this in coming of age day when I was 20 years old. This is formal wear so I also wore this and attended my cousin’s wedding reception and my friend wedding reception. This garment has rule that married ladies shouldn’t wear Furisode. So, Furisode is symbolic garment for young girls.

Garment 4: from Japanese wardrobe

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This is also one of kimono called Yukata. This is summer casual clothes so we can’t wear this at wedding reception or such kind of formal situation. This made by my grandmother and this is the last garment she made before she passed away. In my grandmother’s generation they learn the way of sawing Kimono and many women can saw Kimono by their own. Nowadays, we don’t learn Kimono sawing in a school also many people can’t wear Kimono by themselves. Kimono is our traditional wear, so this is sorrow and it should be inherited as Japanese fashion culture.

Garment 5: from Japanese wardrobe

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Showing Kimono again! This garment is called Komon and this has lining so this Kimono is suitable for autumn and winter. I used to learn Kimono sawing and this garment was made by me. This garment was for practicing so I used polyester but Kimono usually made by cotton cloth, wool cloth and silk cloth. Silk is elegant and beautiful but not easy to wash so polyester Kimono was promoted as washable kimono.

As you saw, Kimono are all same shape even its pattern or season are different. In fact, Kimono is eco-friendly garment because we don’t use pattern for making kimono and never cutting curve line. Traditionally, Kimono was inherited from mother to daughter. If their figure is different, for instance, daughter’s arm is shorter than her mother, they will open sleeve part and fold more and adjust them again. Also, cutting for the vertical length is always in same pattern. If it seems long, we fold more length and sew them without cutting off any part. We can also adjust length and width when we are wearing them. Kimono doesn’t have any button or zipper. It is wearing with only tie up with some strings and sash. Kimono is like a supreme free size garment.

Kimono textile is generally 36cm width (14.17 inch) and 12m long (13 yard). (Image 1) In contrast, regular cloth width are about 56 inch and 45 inch and 54.7 yard long. Obviously, kimono textile is short and narrow. Because kimono textile is for a garment without wasted part.

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If we try to make kimono with regular textile, cutting method will be different but pattern is same. (Image 2)

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Honestly, kimono is not active clothes somehow I miss kimono wearing sometime. It seems in the opposite side from fast fashion. Ready to wear and disposal with latest trend is much more common for recent but kimono also has many good point.

It is time to think about slow fashion.

Reference:

Image 1

Kusukami (2011) Kimono piece goods [Online image]. Available from: http://kusukami.jp/?p=2014 [Accessed 6/11/13]

Image 2

Barony of Bryn Gwlad (2001) Kimono layout and assembly sketches [Online image]. Available from: http://bryn-gwlad.ansteorra.org/articles/as/kimono/ [Accessed 6/11/13]

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